Manners & obedience
How to teach a dog to crawl
Crawling looks silly and asks a lot. The dog has to want the treat while choosing not to stand up and grab it, which makes this a quiet lesson in impulse control wearing a trick costume. It also tends to be a good indoor game for cold or rainy evenings, when the yard is not an option and you need something that tires the brain.
Last reviewed October 4, 2026
Start from the down
Draw the treat along the floor, one inch at a time.
Your dog needs a reliable down first; if that is shaky, work on it before you start here. Choose carpet or a rug, since crawling on hard floors can be uncomfortable for elbows. Ask for a down, then hold the treat on the floor a few centimetres in front of the nose. Pull it forward slowly. Mark any forward shuffle that happens while the elbows stay planted.
If the back end pops up, build a ceiling. Sit on the floor with one knee bent and lure your dog under the leg, or rest a hand lightly above the shoulders without touching. Some owners use a low coffee table or a pair of chairs with a blanket across them. The ceiling only reminds the dog that staying low pays; it should never press or trap.
- A solid down comes first
- Soft floor under the elbows
- Treat stays on the ground
- Mark shuffles, not stands
Where it goes sideways
Why your dog keeps standing up halfway.
Often the treat is moving too fast or rising off the floor. A lure even a hand's width up invites the dog to rise and follow it. Slow down until the dog can keep pace on its belly, and reward far more often than feels necessary at the start. Asking for a long crawl before a short one is solid is the other common error.
Skip the tunnel or table if your dog seems uneasy about tight spaces; never lure a worried dog under something. Crawling also asks a lot of the elbows, shoulders and hips, so older dogs, heavy-bodied dogs and any dog who seems reluctant or sore deserve a vet check before you make it a regular game. Frustration often shows up as barking, pawing or popping up repeatedly. End on an easy rep.
Building the crawl
From a lured shuffle to a crawl across the room.
Distance here means two things: how far the dog crawls, and how far you stand from it. Grow the first by one body-length at a time, feeding at the end of each stretch. Grow the second by kneeling, then crouching, then standing, with the lure shrinking into a pointing hand that sweeps along the floor. Duration is simpler: a pause in the down before you release.
Add distractions slowly: a toy on the couch, another adult in the room, a different floor. That is where the impulse control earns its keep, because a dog who can crawl past a toy without breaking position is practising the same restraint a down-stay needs. If you would like someone to watch your timing, Private Training is $150 + GST for a one-hour session and a written weekly plan.
Asked and answered
The questions people ask us.
How do I get my dog to crawl instead of standing up?
Keep the treat touching the floor and move it slower than feels natural. A low ceiling, such as your bent knee, can help, as long as it never presses on the dog.
Is crawling bad for a dog's joints?
We cannot assess an individual dog's joints, and this is a question for your vet, especially for older or heavy-bodied dogs. Keep sessions short and on a soft surface either way.
What word should I use for crawl?
Any short word that does not sound like your other cues works, such as "crawl" or "creep". Add it only once the hand signal reliably produces the shuffle.
Why is my dog getting frustrated learning to crawl?
Often the steps are too big or the rewards too far apart. Shrink the ask back to a single shuffle, reward quickly, and stop while your dog is still keen.
Keep reading
Training more than tricks?
Book a consultation to talk through your dog's manners and focus, and we will suggest the lightest option that does the job.
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